Tuesday, March 09, 2010
Expat Focus awards this blog - Recommended Website for Egypt
The Expat Focus Website has given this blog, the award of "Recommended Website for Egypt"
Their website states that:
The Expat Focus Recommended Website Award is only given to outstanding expat websites which meet the following minimum criteria:
- Usefulness: Whether it's a fact packed, well known expat portal or a small personal blog, the website provides information which others moving to or living in a foreign country would find useful.
- Integrity: We only recommend honest, responsible sites. We will not recommend any site which would be in breach of our own Acceptable Use Policy
- Activity: Sites which are updated frequently or have active forums.
- Free: We do not recommend sites which require paid subscriptions or membership fees.
You can see that this particular blog has been awarded here.
Again thank you so much to each and everyone of my readers.
Tuesday, May 19, 2009
Obama to speak from Al Azhar mosque?
While speculation is on as to whether he will even speak from Cairo - Sharm el Sheikh seems to be a favourite of Foreign Dignitaries who visit Egypt and hosts international summits too - one of the rumours is that he may speak from the Al Azhar Mosque in Cairo.
See article in DNA here
As an outsider who has lived in Egypt for close to 3 years, it seems like a great choice.
An American President visiting an Arab nation before Israel (hence breakinga non-official protocol that has been enduring since many decades) shows that there may be hope yet for an improved Arab-American relationship, but I'm not sure how the Egyptian masses perceive this step.
The Al Azhar mosque itself is a widely respected platform across the Islamic world, but what would be the wider reaction to a non-muslim, speaking at such a historic, spirtual and cultural center.
Another interesting development to look forward to. . .
Saturday, November 29, 2008
Managing Overseas Houseguests
Having moved to Egypt, the one thing most expats have in common other than being hassled for baksheesh, is houseguests. Egypt is a country most people have had secret dreams of visiting from the time they first studied or read about it. Having someone living in this exotic country gives them the added incentive to visit. Having you here, gives your houseguests a chance to spend time with their loved ones (you and your family) besides saving on accommodation costs and having a companion guide accompany them on sightseeing trips, who can speak to them in a familiar language or accent.
We have had about 50 houseguests over the last one year and all of them have been welcome ones and we have been on good terms even after they left. It may seem like an impossible feat, but it is quite possible for you to achieve the same whether you have a deluge of visitors or a couple of them every year. There are a couple of tips that can help you achieve this state of zen. The most essential tip is to screen your guests before they even arrive.
Tip 1: Do not issue invitations to people you do not want visiting, the acquaintances who make you want to our lock your house and check into a hotel for the duration of their visit, the ones who will drive your spouse to drink, incite your children to rebel or your household staff to walk out. Your staff has that option, your family members don’t, so make sure that your family is also comfortable having these people over as houseguests.
If trouble making acquaintances want to visit, then respond with a polite no and feel free to embellish with excuses that you won’t be around or someone else is visiting during that time. Your long term family harmony is more important than the guilt you may feel, over saying “no”
Tip 2: Once you have invited someone to come over, check for any dietary requirements or restrictions. This gives you a chance to be prepared ahead of time and source hard to locate items, plan your menus, identify appropriate restaurants and have a well stocked larder so that there is no panic at the last moment.
Tip 3: If your guests plan to visit anything outside of Cairo, then clarify this as soon as they book their tickets to Egypt. Hotel, train, cruise and domestic flight bookings need to be made in advance and often you can get better deals if you book ahead of time. Often these bookings are cheaper if made within Egypt than outside. Knowing this, the choice is up to you on whether you want to volunteer to make these bookings on their behalf. If you do make these bookings, have it clear upfront as to who will make the payment to whom and how, to avoid any nasty repercussions later.
Tip 4: Most polite houseguests (we have tried to eliminate the other kind with Tip 1) will ask you what you would like them to bring for you and your family. Have a list ready for such occasions, with hard to locate items/ingredients in Egypt or items which are frightfully expensive here when compared with back home. Most visitors also travel light, so the heavy electric comforter you did not bring back to Egypt on your last trip home because you did not want to pay excess baggage, may easily fit into your sisters baggage when she visits. If someone is coming from India, I normally ask for Indian cooking spices, spice mixes, medicines(favored brands) or local movies that aren’t available in Egypt. If someone is coming from the US, then I check with them if it will fit within their baggage weight limits then buy books online from Amazon and have it shipped to their location to bring along.
Tip 5: Every visitor (above 21) is allowed to buy 3 bottles of alcohol from the Duty Free shop in Egypt on the day that they arrive. If you would like to stock your bar, then request to use their limit. A small note will be made on their passport, but it is only to prevent them re-using their limit, it won’t cause any other problems.
Who pays for what is a cultural thing. Take a call on this based on your own relationships.
Tip 6: Once they arrive, don’t hesitate to set some ground rules. These could be any of your house rules that are really important to you - ranging from restricted TV viewing hours for the children to bedtimes. Decide before hand which house rules are ok to be suspended when you have house guests and which ones cannot be compromised.
For eg: I am not an sunrise worshipper, so for my early bird guests, I let them know the night before where all the breakfast items are and how the gas and microwave operate and let them fix themselves their morning meal. This way I don’t resent their being around and having to realign my schedule and they don’t feel like they are over-imposing.
Tip 7: Always familiarize your guests with the kitchen even if you have round-the-clock house help, so they can help themselves to a snack or fix themselves a cup of coffee at odd hours without feeling too bad about it.
Tip 8: The main reason why most visitors come to Egypt other than to see you, is to see the sights. If you have just one or 2 sets of a visitors a year and you are really close to them, you may consider visiting some of the sights with them and doing a fair bit of guiding. But, if the thought of another viewing of the pyramids or the citadel is just too painful to contemplate then you have 2 options depending on your guests.
The first option is to fix them up with a guide or sight seeing service that you have used before or has been personally recommended to you. There are a lot of fly-by-night operators out there, so make sure you use someone reliable.
The second option is to fix them up with a cab company or your own driver who will take them and bring them back from the sights. If you give them your own driver then have a plan for who will take the family around on their daily routes.
Tip 9: Prepping your guests: Most of my guests have been the do-it-yourself kind of travelers. So I hand over the most appropriate guide book for each location, draw up a rough map telling them which sights are not to be missed at the location and give them any other require information. I also give them insights, like the Egyptian museum not allowing cameras and photography inside the museum, but there is a safe counter outside where they can leave their cameras if stopped.
Guests will find information like the cleanest washrooms, best places to stop for a bite and how much to tip, invaluable, especially if they are sightseeing without a guide.
Remind your guests to constantly sip on water to combat the dry heat of Cairo and give them at least one bottle of chilled water when leaving the house. These little personal touches will make your guests feel really welcome and at ease.
Tip 10: Souvenirs: Every visitor would like to take some kind of souvenir back with them. It is up to you whether you send them shopping on their own into the khan / City stars section of the khan or go with them.
I like to shop with my visitors to make sure that they aren’t completely ripped off. I have my regular shops in the khan where the vendors start at lower rates than they would with complete strangers. Then I let my friends do the choosing and bargaining while I sip on a shai or karkadee that almost all shopkeepers offer on each visit.
It is important to let your guests do the choosing and bargaining so they end up buying what they want and pay what they are willing to pay and not something you like and what you think it is worth.
It is important to know that money can break many relationships, so be upfront about this. Who pays for what, is very culture and relationship dependant, so there is no hard and fast rule. Work out what works best for you and your family and be clear about it.
In low context cultures, it is common for house guests to treat the family they are staying with to dinner and drinks at a restaurant on most evenings. In high context cultures it may be expected for the host to do a lot of the cooking at home, especially in Egypt where home style cooking may not be available outside the house.
Your guests may like to try the local cuisine or they may like to cook for you one evening. Keep yourself flexible to adapt to these things and accept a few last minute changes, rather than making a plan a month in advance and trying to stick to it as far as possible. This will keep you in a more relaxed mood.
I also like to let my guests set their own pace for sightseeing. I give them a brief idea on what are the main highlights to be seen in Egypt and let them plan their own time in Egypt. This relieves me of the pressure of planning and they do not feel the pressure of following my time table. Instead they can enjoy spending the most time doing what they like best.
Also remember, everyone needs space and time to themselves. While accepting this of your guests, also accept this of your family. Do not expect your spouse and children to spend all their time at home making polite conversation with your visiting aunt and uncle. Let them enjoy their evenings too, doing things they normally do.
The key is to keep things as normal as possible for you and your family and be prepared for some flexibility in your routine. This will ensure that your house guests have an enjoyable stay in Egypt and you and your family retain your sanity and good humor.
Karishma Pais (Kim) is an expat trailing wife in Cairo. She has a Masters Degree in Human Resources and Behavior. She consults on HR projects, delivers intercultural training at the CSA, counsels new and experienced expats, writes for several magazines – online and offline, she runs whazzupcairo@yahoogroups.com and whazzupcairo@googlegroups.com among other activities. Her Social Commentary and blog about life in Egypt can be read at http://whazzupegypt.blogspot.com
Monday, October 27, 2008
Car Seats in Cairo ?
In countries like the US, you need an infant car seat even to bring a new baby home from the hospital.
A lot of expats in Egypt bring appropriate car seats with them from their home countries. There are some shops in Cairo which stock car seats but they aren't as well stocked as parents would like. Also the prices in Cairo are quite prohibitive (as I heard from a friend here, who just delivered her first baby - Mabrook!)
Most people in Cairo as I mentioned before, bring in their car seats from abroad, borrow it from a friend whose kid has outgrown their car seat, (infant car seats aren't appropriate for toddlers), or order them online and pay the shipping charges.
For those who have grown up with car seats, it may seem a huge safety hazard to take a child for a drive (especially in chaotic Cairo traffic) without belting them down into a car seat, but in Cairo as in India and many other countries, children are considered to be perfectly safe in their parents arms. If anything were to befall them it is either "inshallah" (God's will) or "karma" (fate).
Given the high incidence of accidents in Cairo, common sense would recommend a car seat, preferably one that could be strapped into a Universal Stroller so it has a two in one use.
Wednesday, September 03, 2008
Ramadan Kareem - Ramadan begun in Egypt
This begins the Holy month of fasting for Muslims over the world.
What specifically does it mean to expats in Egypt?
Treat everyone with utmost respect. Lack of nicotine and caffeine to bodies used to consuming them every 5 minutes can lead to extreme crankiness.
What work normally takes a day to be done, will take longer. (yes, than usual)
Offices are working shorter hours.
Expect major traffic jams around 3pm when people start heading home.
Expect near zero traffic at sunset during Iftaar time.
Ramadan is a time to share with the less fortunate. Expect more people lining up for Baksheesh and remember your house help have to be given half their annual bonus at Eid time.
Expect to be invited for at least one iftaar party where you will be treated to a large variety of foods. If you are unlucky enough to not have any Egyptian friends to invite you, make sure you attend at least one iftaar buffet in town this season to be treated to delicacies that aren't prepared during the rest of the year. The buffet at the Marriott is a good option.
Definitely wander around the Khan late at night and soak in the atmosphere, maybe even waiting until Sohour. Try to attend a Sufi Performance at the Wikalat al Ghuri.
There are plenty of special cultural events being hosted in the city, try and attend as many as you can and take full advantage of the shortened work days.
Ramadan in Egypt is a unique experience, enjoy it as much as you can. Who knows where you will be next year :)
Sunday, June 29, 2008
Letter From Cairo - Thomas Friedman
From The New York Times
The current global energy-food crisis is, understandably, a pocketbook issue in America. But when you come to Egypt, you see how, in a society where so many more people live close to the edge, food and fuel prices could become enormously destabilizing. If these prices keep soaring, food and fuel could reshape politics around the developing world as much as nationalism or Communism did in their days.
A few years ago, Egypt’s president, Hosni Mubarak, belatedly but clearly embarked on an economic reform path that has produced 7 percent annual growth in the last three years — and now all that growth is being devoured by food and fuel price increases, like a plague of locusts eating through the Nile Delta.
Let’s start the day here at Hussein el-Ashri’s poultry shop — in the lower-middle-class district of Shubra — a shop that gives new meaning to the term “fresh chicken.”
Customers arrive, select a live chicken out of a coop. It’s slaughtered and de-feathered while you wait and handed to you in a bag with all the parts. Business had grown steadily over the years at Ashri’s shop, as Egypt’s lower-middle classes could afford more meat. But in the past six months, the price of chicken has doubled. Ashri explained: “Everything has gone up — electricity, the price of feed, gasoline, labor, the price of medicine for the chickens. Everything.”
For Egypt’s poor, who make up 40 percent of the population, food makes up 60 percent of their household budget. When wheat prices double, because more U.S. farmers plant corn for biofuels, it is devastating for Egyptians, who depend on imported American wheat for their pita bread. Bread riots are now a daily occurrence here. As for chicken, all Ashri knows is that “there are fewer customers and less traffic now.” You need to give your kids meat, complains a lady in a veil, “but now you give them a little smaller piece.”
Next to Ashri, though, the man selling potatoes from a wooden cart is doing a brisk business. “We can’t go out anymore for entertainment,” says one lady, whose husband is on an army pension, as she flips through the potatoes. “But there are people a lot worse off. Some can’t afford food at all.”
Around the corner, at a state bakery selling subsidized bread, a small crowd has gathered, waiting for their daily ration. Someone else has collected a donkey cart full of pita scraps to be sold for animal feed. Nothing wasted.
A discussion breaks out between the potato man and his customers about who has “less of a conscience” — schoolteachers in the state school system who have to be paid to give after-school lessons because they have 80 kids in their classes and no one can learn there, or doctors in the state system who have to be bribed for decent care. It is not that they’re evil; they’re all being squeezed.
What’s happening is that the basic bargain between the Egyptian regime and its people — which said, “We will guarantee you cheap food, a job, education and health care, and you will stay out of politics” — is fraying. Even with the growth of the last three years, government subsidies and wages can’t keep up with today’s food and fuel price rises. The only part of the bargain that’s left is: “and you will stay out of politics.”
From Shubra we drive into the desert toward Alexandria. The highway is full of cars. How can all these Egyptians afford to be driving, I wonder? Answer: The government will spend almost $11 billion this year to subsidize gasoline and cooking fuel; gas here is only about $1.30 a gallon. Sounds like a good deal for the poor — only the poor have no cars, and the fuel subsidies mean less money for mass transit.
Think about these numbers: This year Egypt will spend $6 billion on education and $3 billion on health care, far less than the subsidies for fuel. This is a terrible trap. The subsidies should have been phased out when food and fuel prices were lower. Now that they have soared, the pain of removing the subsidies would be politically suicidal. So education and health care get killed instead.
But Egypt today is one country with two systems. Along the Alexandria highway, we pass one gated community filled with McMansions — with names like “Moon Valley,” “Hyde Park” and “Beverly Hills.” One has a 99-hole golf complex. They are populated by Egyptians who have worked hard and made money in the gulf or who are part of the globalized business class here. They are entitled to their McMansions as much as Americans. But the energy and water implications of all these new gated communities is also fueling the soaring global demand.
The good news: More Egyptians today can afford to live like Americans. The bad news: Even more Egyptians can’t even afford to live like Egyptians anymore. This is not good — not for them, not for us.
The Last Hurra
U.S. Network Falters in Mideast Mission
By Craig Whitlock
Washington Post Foreign Service
Monday, June 23, 2008
The Egyptian bureau of al-Hurra, an Arabic-language television network financed by the U.S. government, boasts a spectacular view of the Nile River and the capital's bustling streets. But inside, all is quiet.
The bureau's satellite link was unplugged with little explanation a few weeks ago by a local company, making it impossible to broadcast live. Since then, staffers have had to use a studio controlled by the Egyptian secret police, who have warned guests not to say anything controversial on the air.
Al-Hurra -- "The Free One" in Arabic -- is the centerpiece of a U.S. government campaign to spread democracy in the Middle East. Taxpayers have spent $350 million on the project. But more than four years after it began broadcasting, the station is widely regarded as a flop in the Arab world, where it has struggled to attract viewers and overcome skepticism about its mission.
Propaganda has become a primary front in the war against terrorism, with the United States and al-Qaeda each investing heavily to win over hearts and minds. This article examines one aspect of the U.S. effort to influence people through the airwaves. Tomorrow, another will look at al-Qaeda's online propaganda campaign.
Since its inception, al-Hurra has been plagued by mediocre programming, congressional interference and a succession of executives who either had little experience in television or could not speak Arabic, according to interviews with former staffers, other Arab journalists and viewers in the Middle East.
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It has also been embarrassed by journalistic blunders. One news anchor greeted the station's predominantly Muslim audience on Easter by declaring, "Jesus is risen today!" After al-Hurra covered a December 2006 Holocaust-denial conference in Iran and aired, unedited, an hour-long speech by the leader of Hezbollah, Congress convened hearings and threatened to cut the station's budget.
"Many people just didn't know how to do their job," said Yasser Thabet, a former senior editor at al-Hurra. "If some problem happened on the air, people would just joke with each other, saying, 'Well, nobody watches us anyway.' It was very self-defeating."
According to critics, the U.S. government miscalculated in assuming that al-Hurra could repeat the success of Radio Free Europe during the Cold War, when information-starved listeners behind the Iron Curtain tuned in on their shortwave radios.
Al-Hurra, by contrast, faces cutthroat competition. About 200 other stations beam Arabic-language programming to satellite dishes reaching even the poorest neighborhoods in the Middle East and North Africa. The BBC launched an Arabic-language news channel this year, and more rivals loom.
"Arabs sit in their homes in front of the television, and they surf like crazy," said Hisham Melhem, a Washington-based anchor for al-Arabiya, a Saudi-owned satellite TV network. "You rarely find someone who says they watch al-Hurra. It may be number 10 on their dial. But definitely not first, not second, not third, not fourth."
"They failed in finding their own niche, and they failed in presenting something different about America to the Arab world," he added. "It's a glitzy operation, a costly operation, with very little impact."
In April 2003, Congress created al-Hurra as a counterweight to al-Jazeera, the Qatar-based network that built a large following in the Middle East with aggressive coverage of the conflicts in Afghanistan, Iraq and the Palestinian territories.
After scrambling to hire staff, al-Hurra began broadcasting via satellite in February 2004 from an office park in Springfield, Va. Arabic-language programming now airs commercial-free 24 hours a day, with news updates at least every 30 minutes.
The station's mission is to provide objective news for a region where hostility to U.S. policy is widespread. Executives said they have accomplished that goal.
"It's taken time to show that we're not the propaganda channel, that we're not the Bush channel," said Brian T. Conniff, president of Middle East Broadcasting Networks, the nonprofit founded by Congress to run al-Hurra.
Conniff said the network gives priority to covering democracy and other sensitive subjects in the Arab world. Key programs include "Town Hall," a talk show that rotates among different cities, and "Equality," which focuses on women's issues. Al-Hurra has also emphasized U.S. news, such as the 2008 presidential campaign.
There have been a few journalistic coups, such as when the station broke word of Saddam Hussein's execution. But there have been plenty of embarrassments, too.
In 2004, when an Israeli airstrike killed the spiritual leader of Hamas, Sheik Ahmed Yassin, virtually all Arabic news channels interrupted their regular programming. Al-Hurra continued with a cooking show.
Internal surveys show that al-Hurra's audience has expanded by roughly 28 percent over the past four years. The most recent figures show that an estimated 25.8 million adults in 13 countries, with a combined population of more than 200 million, tune into al-Hurra at least once a week, according to the Broadcasting Board of Governors, the U.S. agency that oversees it.
It is difficult to verify those numbers, however. In a report two years ago, the Government Accountability Office, Congress's investigative arm, questioned their reliability, citing "weaknesses" in sampling methodology and documentation.
Independent surveys indicate that al-Hurra attracts a far smaller audience than its chief competitors, al-Jazeera and al-Arabiya. In a public opinion poll of six Arab countries released in March by the University of Maryland and Zogby International, 54 percent of those surveyed said they watched al-Jazeera most often for international news, compared with 9 percent for al-Arabiya. Al-Hurra got 2 percent, tied with al-Manar -- Hezbollah's satellite propaganda channel.
Al-Hurra executives said their goal is not necessarily to outdraw those networks, but to offer a credible alternative news source. "We're not saying we're winning the race," said Bruce Sherman, director of strategic planning for the Broadcasting Board of Governors. "What we're saying is we have a horse in the race."
Al-Hurra's largest audience by far, with about 9 million weekly viewers, is in Iraq, where the network operates a separate dedicated satellite channel. But it has found it harder to make inroads elsewhere. In Egypt, which has a population of almost 82 million and is the cultural heart of the Arab world, fewer than 8 percent of adults watch al-Hurra weekly, according to U.S. government surveys.
Arab journalists and viewers say al-Hurra has a basic problem: It is boring. Investigative pieces are rare, and critics say the channel generally doesn't make waves.
Salameh Nematt, a Jordanian journalist based in Washington, said that al-Hurra, like many of its competitors, has ignored controversial issues such as financial corruption involving Arab leaders and the use of torture by security forces.
"Al-Hurra would have been the number one station in the Arab world had they done one-quarter of what they should have covered," Nematt said. "People say if it's an American station, nobody will watch it. That's crap. If it's an American station that does a good job, everybody will watch it."
A String of Missteps
Al-Hurra's founding father was Norman J. Pattiz, a Democrat on the Broadcasting Board of Governors who helped persuade Congress to fund the station. The chairman of Westwood One, a leading distributor of radio programming, Pattiz assembled the team to build al-Hurra.
He recruited Bert Kleinman, a former Westwood One official whose radio career included producing "American Top 40 With Casey Kasem" and "The History of Rock and Roll." He also hired Farrell Meisel, a television executive with experience in Asian and European broadcasting.
"We had a very short timetable, almost unheard-of," Meisel recalled. "And we had to compete in the most challenging television footprint in the world."
None of the team members spoke Arabic. For that, they relied on Mouafac Harb, a Lebanese journalist hired as al-Hurra's first news director.
According to former al-Hurra staffers, Harb filled the newsroom with Lebanese employees, many of whom had thin journalistic credentials. Anchors spoke in heavy Lebanese dialects, turning off viewers from other countries. On-air reporting errors were common.
"He hired his friends -- this was the problem -- and they didn't have any experience," said Magdi Khalil, a former producer who clashed with Harb. "I told him, 'We need to improve the quality.' He said, 'No, no -- we need to fill the air.' He had no idea what being a news station means."
In a telephone interview from Beirut, Harb said it wasn't easy to persuade leading Arab journalists to come to Washington to work for a station funded by the U.S. government. He denied that his anchors and news-show hosts spoke in dialects but acknowledged that the staff was top-heavy with Lebanese.
Harb resigned in 2006. He said he left, in part, because Pattiz had stepped down, but also because he sensed the Broadcasting Board of Governors wanted al-Hurra to promote U.S. foreign policy instead of just reporting the news. He said the station has since become more cautious. "There is a tendency to please Washington and not the audience," he said. "It looks like C-SPAN in Arabic -- who cares?"
Other former al-Hurra staffers said Harb was encouraged to leave. His replacement as news director, Larry Register, a veteran producer and Middle East correspondent for CNN, said the board of governors gave him a clear mission: to overhaul editorial operations and impose basic standards.
"In their view, al-Hurra was a propaganda channel which only really covered Lebanon," Register said. "They wanted me to help it become more like a real newsroom."
Register said it was obvious that al-Hurra didn't have enough bureaus in the Middle East and had overpaid for external programming. The executive editor and managing editor, he learned, hadn't been on speaking terms for months.
"There was no assignment desk, none. I was like, 'Well, how does this work?' " he recalled. "There wasn't a great talent pool. There were a lot who were just there for the paycheck and the green card."
In an interview, James K. Glassman, chairman of the Broadcasting Board of Governors since June 2007, acknowledged many of the problems.
"Some of the basics had not been well established," said Glassman, who is a former publisher of the New Republic as well as a former business columnist for The Washington Post. "I'm not sure it was clear to all the journalists what the rules were." He said training has increased since then and the caliber of work has improved.
"They are doing objective, professional journalism," he said.
A Dearth of Journalists
But Register didn't speak Arabic, either. According to former staffers, he and other top executives often didn't learn of broadcast blunders until well after the fact, if at all.
James Martone, a former CNN Middle East correspondent, was hired by al-Hurra as a producer in early 2007. Fluent in Arabic, he acted as an unofficial watchdog, cataloguing errors and reporting them to senior management. He said he had to teach many al-Hurra staffers the basics of what they could or could not say on the air.
"There were a lot of people working for the organization who weren't really journalists," said Martone, who resigned after several months. "When I started pointing out what was actually on the air, it became my full-time job. . . . The people upstairs, the Americans, I don't think they knew what was going on."
Few others in Washington knew what was being broadcast, either. Under a Cold War-era law, al-Hurra and other media outlets financed by the U.S. government are prohibited from broadcasting at home. The intent is to prevent the government from aiming propaganda at its own citizens.
In June 2007, Register was forced to resign after the Wall Street Journal editorial page disclosed that al-Hurra had broadcast the unedited speech by Hasan Nasrallah, the Hezbollah leader.
Since then, al-Hurra's news operations have been led by Daniel Nassif, another Lebanese native. Nassif had previously served as news director of Radio Sawa, a U.S.-financed FM radio station that broadcasts pop music in the Middle East. Before that, he had worked for a Washington-based advocacy group that sought to end the Syrian military occupation of Lebanon.
Nassif described his position as a "consultant and activist" who helped Lebanese generals and other anti-Syrian figures meet U.S. lawmakers and policymakers. He said that he stopped doing advocacy work in 2002 after he was hired by Radio Sawa and that his lack of formal journalism experience had not hindered him.
"You don't have to go to Columbia Journalism School to be a good journalist," he said.
What Station?
On a busy shopping street in Cairo one recent evening, it was difficult to turn up loyal al-Hurra viewers. Most people said they had not heard of the station or had only a passing familiarity with it.
"I've watched it a couple of times, but I mostly watch al-Jazeera," said Hayam Saad, 35, a homemaker. "There are just too many channels on the satellite dish, and people want something they can relate to."
Other people cited al-Hurra's strange mix of programming: old documentaries with Arabic subtitles, a program about a Jewish singing group on tour in Australia, a show on the history of bluejeans.
Amina Khairy, a Cairo-based correspondent for al-Hayat, an Arabic-language newspaper widely read in the Middle East, said al-Hurra stirred strong public antipathy when it was launched in 2004 simply because it was American. But nowadays, she said, the channel draws little attention.
"Nobody ever says, 'Did you see what al-Hurra did yesterday?' " Khairy said.
Unlike some Egyptians, Mohamed Ahmed Mohamed, a 67-year-old contractor, said it didn't bother him that al-Hurra was financed by the U.S. government. But he, too, complained that the programming was dull.
"I've clicked on it, but nothing's stopped me," he said. "Whether it's American or French or Israeli, good shows attract viewers. And I haven't seen anything interesting on al-Hurra."
Special correspondent Munir Ladaa in Berlin contributed to this report.
Tuesday, June 24, 2008
With a word, Egyptians leave it all to fate
By Michael Slackman
Published: June 20, 2008
CAIRO: The McDonald's here has golden arches, the same golden arches as anywhere else in the world. The food is prepared the same assembly-line way, too. But there is an invisible, or more precisely, divine, element in bringing that burger to the plate that the uninitiated may not be prepared for.
"Inshallah," or "God willing," the counterman said as he walked off to see about a burger without onions at the McDonald's on the Alexandria Desert road, 30 miles from the center of Cairo.
Egyptians have always been religious, from Pharaonic times to the present. Any guidebook to Egypt alerts tourists to Egyptians' frequent use of inshallah in discussing future events, a signal of their deep faith and belief that all events occur, or don't occur, at God's will. "See you tomorrow," is almost always followed by a smile and, "inshallah."
But there has been inshallah creep, to the extreme. It is now attached to the answer for any question, past, present and future. What's your name, for example, might be answered, "Muhammad, inshallah."
"I say to them, 'You are already Muhammad or you are going to be Muhammad?' " said Attiat el-Abnoudy, a documentary filmmaker in Cairo.
Inshallah has become the linguistic equivalent of the head scarf on women and the prayer bump, the spot where worshipers press their foreheads into the ground during prayers, on men. It has become a public display of piety and fashion, a symbol of faith and the times. Inshallah has become a reflex, a bit of a linguistic tick that has attached itself to nearly every moment, every question, like the word "like" in English. But it is a powerful reference, intended or not.
Political and social commentators here say its frequent use reflects or fuels, or both, the increasing degree to which people have dressed the routine of daily life up with religious accessories. Will the taxi get me to my destination? Will my sandwich come without onions? What's my name? It's always, "God willing."
"Now inshallah is used in a much broader way than 20 years ago," said the Egyptian playwright Aly Salem. "We always used to say inshallah in relation to plans we were going to do in the future. Now it is part of the appearance of piety."
The starting point for inshallah is faith, but just like the increasing popularity of the head scarf and the prayer bump, its new off-the-rack status reflects the rising tide of religion around the region. Observance, if not necessarily piety, is on the rise, as Islam becomes — for many — the cornerstone of identity. That has put the symbols of Islam at the center of culture, and routine.
"Over the past three decades, the role of religion has been expanded in everything in our lives,"' said Ghada Shahbendar, a political activist who studied linguistics at American University in Cairo.
Deference to the divine has become a communal reflex, a compulsive habit, like the incessant honking of Egyptian cabdrivers — even when there are no other cars on the street.
Samer Fathi, 40, has a small kiosk that sells chips and cigarettes and phone cards downtown. He was asked for a 100-unit phone card and responded almost absent-mindedly "inshallah," as he flipped through the stack to find one.
At 19 Ismael Street the elevator door opened.
"Going down?"
"Inshallah," a passenger replied.
As it has become routine, inshallah has also become a kind of convenience, a useful dodge, a bit of theological bobbing-and-weaving to avoid commitment. No need to say no. If it doesn't happen, well, God didn't mean it to happen. Nazly Shahbendar, Ghada's daughter, said for example if she was invited to a party she did not want to attend, she would never say no.
"I'd say inshallah," said Shahbendar who is 24 and anything but a picture of the new religiosity. She is not veiled or shy about talking to men; she smokes in front of her mother.
She also points out that inshallah is not the only religious term to infiltrate the lexicon of routine. The younger Shahbendar, like many people here, have taken to using the Shahada, the Muslim declaration of belief, as a routine greeting. So instead of "How are you? Fine, and you?" she will say to a friend "There is no God but God," to which the friend will complete the statement. "And Muhammad is his prophet."
People now answer the phone that way, too, skipping hello altogether. It would be something like Christians greeting each other with "Christ is risen!" followed by "Christ will come again." Not just on Sundays, but every day.
"We are a very religious people, Egyptians," said Mostafa Said, 25, as he told his friend he hoped, inshallah, to have his car turn indicator fixed by next week. "We believe God is responsible for what happens, even to the car."
But it is not just about faith in the celestial, that has people invoking God. It is also, at least for some, a lack of faith in the earthbound rulers who run the place. People here are tired — of the rising prices and the eroding wages, of the traffic, of the corruption, of the sense that it is every man for himself.
"In this place, when something works, or you want something to work, you thank God, because it's certainly not the government who is going to help you," said Sherif Issa, 48, a taxi driver in Cairo with a nicotine-stained mustache and a fair size belly. "It's because everything is going in the wrong direction — who can we look up to except God?"
That Issa is a Christian is evidence that the use of inshallah is not just a phenomenon of Egypt's Muslims.
"It doesn't matter whether you're a Christian or a Muslim," he said. "I'm going to take you to your house, arriving there in a decent amount of time is already a miracle. Of course I say inshallah!"
Nadim Audi contributed reporting.
Monday, June 02, 2008
Arab women push boundaries gently
June 1, 2008
Read the rest of the article at LA Times
Friday, May 23, 2008
Egyptian Etiquette for Eating
The article (appended below) is quite in line with my own experiences in this country.
When I first had Egyptian guests over, I was aghast when they left substantial portions of food on their plate. I thought they did not enjoy the food and it was unappealing to them. Another Egyptian friend explained to me, that leaving food on the plate was a sign that the host had been generous.
In India where I come from, food is served in a semi-buffet kind of system. The dishes are placed in the center and guests serve themselves or the hostess serves them individually while the guest motions whether they would like a little more or if it has been enough. This is completely unlike the Western system of serving plated food to guests.
Think of an Indian meal as a barbeque setting. Serve yourself and eat with your hands - no cutlery. Although the British did leave behind the use of cutlery during the occupation, forks and spoons aren't commonly used except in formal settings. Food is supposed to be more tasty when eaten with the fingers. It eliminates the taste of metal or plastic in your mouth. Plus certain Indian foods like dosas and rotis are not conducive to eating with a knife and fork.
In the Indian scenario, the larger the variety of items on the table the more hospitable you have been. In meat eating families, at least 3 varieties of meat are served at a meal where guests have been invited. Also when guests are invited over. There should be food to spare in the serving dishes.
One is supposed to eat up everything that is put in one's plate. To leave behind large quantities of food on the plate is considered rude towards the hostesses culinary abilities or a sign of bad upbringing. Most Indian children have grown up with the refrain "Eat everything that is put on your plate, do you know how many children are starving in the world and go to sleep without a single square meal?"
Hence the horror at the quantity of food left behind by my Egyptian guests. I was truly worried that even the hint of spices I had used, was too much for them. Fortunately my friend explained that to me.
Most Egyptian guests will bring over some kind of sweet dish, when invited to your house. A large cake, chocolates or pastries. Budget for these arrivals in your dessert plans. It is quite acceptable to offer the sweets that have been brought in by your guests at the dessert table at the same meal.
Another tip I have learned where food is concerned is that the serving of Shai (black tea) signals the end of the evening. So definitely offer your Egyptian guests some shai to end the meal. Not too quickly after dessert - that will imply that you are trying to get rid of them, but after a little time has passed. And if you have been served shai in an Egyptians house, then it is time to politely take your leave once the shai has been drunk.
and as mentioned in the article below, Egyptians are quite forgiving of khwagas (foreigners) who aren't completely aware of their social etiquette, so don't worry too much about being Emily Post :)
Avoid the Evil Eye
May 22, 2008 12:16 p.m.
When it comes to table manners, the devil is in each culture's details. Eating with one's fingers may be considered slovenly in one place, but the norm in another. In Egypt and other parts of the Middle East, looking at a fellow diner's plate is considered to be rude.
Cairo native Amr Ragab explains that when someone stares at another person's food, he or she sends a signal of desire and envy. That act of acknowledging what another person owns can bring bad luck: the antidote is to offer to share. "I'm afraid if I don't give you any," says Mr. Ragab, "I'll get the evil eye."
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Amy Riolo |
Don't look: Staring at another person's food can bring the "evil eye." |
The idea that attention to success can bring about failure is widespread in cultures from South and Central America to Asia and across the Middle East. The sudden misfortune that is said to come with this attention is commonly called the "evil eye." Tourists can often find kitschy amulets shaped like eyeballs and made of blue-and-white glass in Turkey, North Africa, Israel and the Persian Gulf. Their popularity may make the belief seem rather frivolous, but its roots are deep and its influence is still expressed in this detail of Egyptian dining etiquette.
Sometimes, though, it's hard not to look at what someone else has ordered.
"The way I do it, I look but I try not to stare at the plate," Mr. Ragab explains. "I'll look for a second but I won't let my eyes linger. If I get caught I'll say 'Ah, that looks nice!' "
At that point, the offer of food from the plate in question will most likely be extended, and a second, important part of the cultural practice comes into play.
"I know that if he's obliged to give me, I feel obliged to say no a couple of times," Mr. Ragab says. "You refuse it at least once and people even say twice, but you have to eventually take some, otherwise you're saying it's bad, you don't like it."
Amy Riolo, an American food historian who has studied Middle Eastern cuisine and is married to an Egyptian, remembers that it took her a few tries to get the hang of this modest back-and-forth exchange. "I would offer someone something and they would refuse and then I would take it back, but they were waiting for that third offer."
There is one paradox, though: While it is considered impolite to look at another's plate in a restaurant, it is acceptable to do so in the home. This is because the same food is shared and eaten family-style, says Mr. Ragab, so there is no comparison to wealth.
Whether the meal is at home or in a restaurant, never leave a clean plate. When dining as a guest in an Egyptian home, this is an especially important thing to remember. "If there isn't any more food on the table, then the assumption is that they haven't been generous enough," warns David Mack, a former who studied in Egypt before embarking on a 30-year career in the Foreign Service. "They may leave you sitting there while they desperately go to the neighbor's for something else."
A guest signals that he or she is full by leaving a little of each kind of food on the plate.
For the confused traveler, Egyptians thankfully have etiquette on etiquette: "Even though Egyptians have their own etiquette rules," says Ms. Riolo, "they're very gracious about letting foreigners bend them."
Monday, May 05, 2008
Late Night Visits - ONLY in Cairo!
The laundry boy had already brought my ironed clothes at 10:45pm - he normally turns up anytime between 10:00pm and 11:30pm - so I was wondering who it was. Being Egypt, I knew it wasn't an emergency (they would have rung the bell 5-10 times in quick succession if it was) so I thought it was probably someone who needed me to turn the key in the elevator or something like that.
Turns out it was my electricity guy with the bill for the last month. At 11:45pm!
Only in Egypt!
1. Will the electricity man hand deliver your monthly bill at your door step.
2. Will the electricity man also collect the payment for the bill.
3. Will the electricity man land in your house at odd hours of the night.
4. Will your electricity bill range from 40Le to 300LE for almost similar levels of usage of electricity.
Gotta love this place!
Saturday, May 03, 2008
Lovers too poor to wed catch breeze on Nile bridges
Will Rasmussen of Reuters has written an article delving into this phenomenon.
CAIRO (Reuters) - For a prime spot on Qasr el-Nil bridge, spanning the River Nile near the heart of central Cairo, it's best to arrive well before sunset.
On warm spring nights, the bridge is the place to be for courting couples in the capital of the most populous Arab country, where poverty, crowds and a conservative culture leave few other meeting places.
"We know how to be in love in a place like this," says Ibrahim, 19, a student and part-time DJ in Cairo. "We come for the breeze, the view, and to be far from the pollution," he said, resting on the bridge's iron railing with his fiancee, Marwa, an 18-year-old technology student.
The high cost of getting married -- from gold jewellery for the bride to the ceremony itself and a place to live -- and the poverty of many residents of Cairo, means engagements can last years.
On Thursday nights on the eve of the Muslim weekend, couples line the bridge, each pair a few meters apart. They face outward to enjoy the view and avoid being seen by relatives. . . . . . .
Tuesday, April 29, 2008
Sun, sand, sex and stupidity
Kim
From The Daily Mail
Sun, sand, sex and stupidity: Why thousands of middle-aged women are obsessed with holiday gigolos
. . .Writer Jeannette Belliveau, a self-confessed former "sex tourist" and author of a book called Romance On The Road, says the problem is becoming endemic and that these women are deluding themselves about the dangers such flings present.
"The ultimate risk is death," she says, bluntly. "In the past two years three Western women have been killed for their money by their foreign 'toy boys'."
Some of these women tourists never went home after their holiday. Barbara Scott-Jones, 61, from Leeds fell in love with Jamaica and was building a home on the island when she was found dead earlier this year.

Trouble in paradise: Charlotte Rampling as a sex tourist in the movie Vers Le Sud
Labourer Omar Reid has been charged with her murder.
Police believe Barbara had been having an affair with the 30-year-old and had just ended, or was trying to end, the affair when she was killed.
The number of older women who form long-term relationships with holiday gigolos is growing year on year.
Statistically, a third of all cross-cultural "marriages" end in divorce. . .
"In countries such as the Gambia and Kenya, there is both a surplus of men and the fact that women there tend to marry men at least ten years older than themselves, which is the culture. So for 18-year-old and 20-plus men, there is no one to date.
"Poverty is rife. Then, over the past ten years, planeloads of mature single British women have started arriving, their handbags full of cash. They're fit, good-looking men and it didn't take them long to realise that there are rich pickings here.". . .
. . .
Five years on and Sarah Jarvis no longer looks back on her holiday romance with rose-tinted glasses. "I must have spent more than £20,000 on Mohammed," she says. "On my final trip last year, I rang his mobile as usual when I arrived at the airport. There was no reply.
"I drove to the hotel where he worked as a waiter, and stormed into his tiny room. He was in bed with an elderly, white woman - like me. He rang me, sobbing, saying it was all a mistake and he loved me.
"Later I marched up to the woman in the hotel dining room and asked her, very calmly, what she thought she was doing. She looked at me in surprise. 'But he's my boyfriend,' she said. 'We are in love, and I have been flying backwards and forwards from the UK to see him.
"I told her I had, too. She said she had promised Mohammed she would leave her husband and marry him. I said she was a fool."
Sarah then told Mohammed that his lies had been exposed and ended the relationship. "Speaking to some of the hotel staff, I found out Mohammed had at least 40 white girlfriends," she says. "It must have been a real juggling act making sure we didn't all arrive at the same time. Goodness knows how much money he was making out of us all.
"I know people will think: 'How could you be so stupid?' But you have to realise just how seductive it is, if you feel fat, old and ugly, to have a beautiful young man saying he cannot live without you and making love to you as if you were a stunning creature."
But Sarah adds: "More than anything, I want to send out a warning to all the British women planning a holiday romance this summer: don't do it!
"It will cost you thousands of pounds, and you will end up feeling ridiculous and despised. These are practised conmen - they don't think you are beautiful; they laugh at you behind your backs." . . .
Read the Entire Article on The Daily MailAlso read a similar article in The Sunday Independent
Sunday, April 13, 2008
Wudu - Ritual cleansing
As I understand from my muslimah friends: Wudu is the ritual cleansing before each of the fard (obligatory prayers)
It includes washing the hands 3 times and the face and rinsing out the mouth and sniffing water in the nose and then washing to the elbows and then wetting the head and ears and then the feet and ankles(some go upto the shin).
Wudu in Egypt is needed on a physical level to cleanse oneself of all the dirt, dust and pollution, so that one can be clean when standing before God.
But on a spiritual level it helps start the process of getting into a prayer mode. When you focus on the rituals of cleansing, you start leaving behind the stress and strains that have been occupying your thoughts, you start focusing on your upcoming prayers and dialogue with God.
The above explanation is my understanding, errors if any are mine alone - please feel free to correct me.
This ritual cleansing is not unique to Islam. Hindus in India and elsewhere have to take a bath in the mornings before they pray. The previous generations used to be really strict about this morning bath and prayers. Before entering a temple, there will be a water tank(in the older temples) or taps (in the newer ones) for devotees to wash their legs(mainly) hands and face before entering the temple itself. Some of these practices may have been diluted in todays day and age, but the concepts behind this are very similar to the concepts behind wudu.
When entering a church, you often find a basin of Holy Water (blessed on good Friday) The faithful, dip their fingertips in this and then make the sign of the cross with these fingers. Isn't this a ritual cleansing too? We use water(albeit Holy) and then make the sign of the cross as a self blessing and cleansing. (Because the water is Holy, just dabbing it at the 4 spots can cleanse you?)
Wet bathroom floors
As an Indian, I find a lot of similarities in the Egyptian way of life, this water on the bathroom floor is one of them.
From an Indian perspective. Showers came into the scene just maybe 30-40 years ago. I remember my grandparents house had this really ancient shower head attached but no one really used it because it could only give out cold water. Water heaters for the bathroom came in much later. I won't digress into how water used to be heated, its a long story.
bathtubs are a relatively modern concept (20 years - except maybe those who imported their tubs or the really pricey hotels - 5 star type) in the Indian scenario. So to take a bath you normally used a bucket and had the whole bathroom floor to wet or you used a shower and still had the whole bathroom floor to wet. The floors were and are still built to handle the drainage of the whole bathroom floor. The toilet used to be a separate room. There are sometimes sinks in the dining room that you use to wash your hands before and after meals. So the bathroom was literally that - the BATH room. So that room was always wet all over and you had a mat to wipe your feet when you came out.
Bathtubs are still not very common in Indian homes although in the new high rises a lot of builders are putting them in, to make their apartments look more "hep". We like having a lot of space to move around when taking a shower (I so hate having to stand inside a tub and take a shower - because the tubs here are just enough to stand sideways) Also in general - we don't have the time to soak in a tub (it is considered an extravagant waste of time and water in most middle class households) ergo very few tubs. And since a lot of houses still have the WC and the bath rooms separate there is no need for shower separators or shower curtains.
Coming to my opposite problem.
When I was in the US. I did wash most of my clothes in the washing machine (yes, we did have washing machines in India- if you are wondering LOL) but the really delicate embroidery and lacey clothes, I do not like putting in the machine even on the delicate cycle. I still wash these by hand.
So I washed them and wrung them out. Because they were very delicate, they were quite weightless too (not lingerie but weighed about that much) and I hung it on the shower curtain rod to drip dry in my bathroom. In about 30 minutes, I had my downstairs neighbour ringing my bell, that water was seeping from my bathroom into hers. The problem was the clothes dripping on the shower rod. The water from one end was falling inside the tub and getting drained, but the water from the other side was falling on the bathroom floor and had nowhere to go. It must have been half a litre tops, but it seeped into the floor below.
So thats why, I figure Americans are so worried about keeping the water inside the tub, while we are not. And I'm sure my downstairs neighbour is still cursing the stupid Indian neighbours while I can't fathom the logic of not having a drainage in the main section of the bathroom thats apart from the shower and bath area.
Especially because we truly believe that you need water to clean out something properly, not just paper(kitchen/toilet rolls) & vaccums.
It quite disgusted me, that I could never scrub the main bathroom floors in the US with water and bleach to kill off all the bacteria on the floor. And those fluffy covers atop the WC's and the toilet tank - I don't get those either - breeding grounds for germs I say! no matter how pretty they may look.
Has anyone heard why you need to keep your toothbrush at least 4 feet away from the toilet or inside a closed cupboard. Same logic for those fluffy covers. There is a huge hygienic sense in having the WC and the bath room separate, but today in the interests of space, most new constructions in India too, club the 2.
My 2 piastres worth.
Tuesday, April 01, 2008
Story of Egypt's Jews: Rich, complex, not yet over
Its from the Historical Society of Jews from Egypt site.
I can't vouch for the lack of bias in the article, but its pretty interesting all the same.
Below are a couple of excerpts.
....... The Haroun sisters still count among their close friends the Muslims and Christians with whom they went to school as girls, and each grew up to marry Muslims. But much has changed in a generation, says Nadia Haroun. Her daughter was ostracized when she revealed to schoolmates that her mother was Jewish......
.....If there were supporters of Israel, there were also Jews like Chehata Haroun. The father of lawyers Nadia and Magda counted himself an Egyptian, not a Jewish, nationalist.....
Read the entire article at the Historical Society of Jews from Egypt site.
Saturday, January 19, 2008
A Quick Guide to moving to Egypt - for Expats
Was writing a Guide for Expat Women - City Experiences and thought of posting the information here too to benefit my blog readers
A copy of this post is available on their site at http://www.expatwomen.com/city_experiences/cairo_egypt_jan1908.php
City Description:
Cairo if described in one word is "Chaos" But you soon realise there is some innate method in the madness & things somehow pull together & work.
It has extreme weather conditions. Temperature reaches almost upto 50C in Summer and down to 3-4C in Winter. March is the month for the Khamseen (sand storms). You can expect light rain in January.
Pros and Cons:
The traffic, the pollution, the dust, the lack of respect for time and the cacophony can be nerve wracking at times.
Women have a lot more freedom and rights in Egypt than I have noticed in other Middle Eastern countries. Quite a large number of women in Egypt work outside their home.
In general it is a good practice for women to cover their forearms and knees when out in public. This is more to avoid unwanted attention than anything else.
Tourists do wear everything from halter to bikini tops, but keeping in mind local sensibilities it is better to avoid this display of skin.
Many Mosques and Coptic Churches will insist on arms and knees being covered for both men & women visitors. Some will ask you to cover your head. A loose shawl or cap will suffice.
Avoid public displays of affection like kissing and hugging.
Immigration / Visas / Work Permits:
Visitors from some countries require visas before arriving whereas passport holders from USA and some other countries can apply for visas on arrival at the airport for about 15USD.
If you are hired by a company before you arrive, try and get your work permit from this company before you actually arrive in Egypt. Its not as easy to find a company to hire you and sponsor your work permit after arriving in Egypt.
Accomodation:
Apartments range from unfurnished to fully furnished. Fully furnished means all the furniture, AC's in every room except the kitchen. A TV, washing machine, refrigerator, cooking stove and dishwasher.
Maadi is the number one choice for most expats. Zamalek, Mohandaseen, Katameyya, 6th of October City, Heliopolis, Rehab are some other areas expats may choose to live in. I have a detailed article posted at Where Should I live in Egypt/Cairo
Rent could range between 500USD to 6500USD per month depending on various factors.
Is there a typical payment process?
The typical payment process is a one month security deposit and quarterly payments in advance. The agreement is typically for one year. At the end of the year, they may ask for a 5-10% increase in the rent.
When looking for accommodation, always get all the jobs that you want done in the house accomplished before you move in to the house. Thats when most landlords/landladies will work the fastest. Once you move in and ask for things to be done then it could take weeks even to get them to change a lightbulb.
Look for water pressure in the taps.
Check for earthing of the electrical connections.
Check who pays which utilities.
Parking is a pain in most areas, check if your landlord/landlady has any ear-marked parking of the apartment (almost impossible but worth a try)
Every price in Cairo is negotiable including house rent. You can try to negotiate rent downward or ask for extra utilities like a 2nd TV, a microwave etc.
Household Help:
Help is easily available in Egypt. Finding good help is a matter of trial & error and requires patience.
Help is available from locals, rest of Africa (mainly Sudanese) and South East Asian.
Maids charge upwards of 30LE per hour. Monthly rates to be negotiated.
Drivers 800LE upwards.
Gardeners and Nannies are also available
You will have to pay more for English/French speaking staff.
You can give your clothes out for ironing/pressing at the rate of 1LE per item of clothing.
Dry Cleaning is also pretty reasonable.
Communication:
Vodaphone & Mobinil are the 2 long term mobile players in the market. Etisalat has just come in last year.
The fixed line is only available from the government provider, if I'm not mistaken.
Free Wifi is available at most McDonalds, Cilantros and other cafes and restaurants.
ISP's provide various packages starting from 45LE per month.
You can pay for bouquets from Showtime and Orbit among others.
Al Ahram and a couple of other English language newspapers are available.
I personally prefer the magazines to the newspapers.
Local Language :
Tutors and language schools abound. Kalimat is quite reliable as are locations like the CSA.
If you are here for a short while then a translation book will be enough to get by.
I buy Aqua Fina 1.5 litre bottles. My local neighbourhood grocery guy delivers 2 crates of them to my house at an hours notice.
http://whazzupegypt.blogspot.com/2006/12/drinking-water-for-home-consumption.html
Water is available 24 hours a day from the municipal connection and doesn't need to be stored.
Gas and electricity are both supplied by the government.
Not too easy to find a job if you aren't a local. Your personal network is better to help you than any other source.
There are plenty of volunteer opportunities available.
Money and Banks
The local currency is Egyptian Pound/Lire Egyptian or LE.
Currently 1 USD is roughly 5LE.
Setting up a bank account was pretty simple as far as I remember but it was done through my husbands company. Passport and visa and letter from company is what they required.
Healthcare:
The exact medicines you are looking for may not be available but they will search for something with similar composition and offer it to you. Imported medicines are available but expensive. Locally made ones are available for 1/5th the cost.
Pharmacies are available on every street. But check to find one that you are comfortable with.
Always check expiry dates on your medication.
It may be better to get Hepatitis shots before you arrive.
If you like playing with the many street cats on the road in your building - a rabies pre-exposure shot is also recommended.
Universities of America, Germany, Canada, and other countries are present in Cairo.
Some schools have their own buses. Most expats are provided with a car and driver by their company and sometimes use this to drop their kids to school.
Its not very easy to drive in this city. Most expats go for a course in Defensive Driving before they can drive in the less populated areas.
You have to apply for a local drivers license if you are in Egypt beyond 15 days. (Your IDL will be valid for 15 days) Present yourself for a simple driving test and if you clear it you get your license.
The metro is safe and reliable but does not cover all areas in Cairo. I have friends who have taken the mini buses but this is not recommended for the faint hearted. Taxis - black and white and yellow (air conditioned and metred) are available.
Grocery Shopping in Cairo
I would carry my electric/electronic items that I cant do without from home. It may not be possible to get your brand or model in Egypt. Any specialty food or food items would be best brought from back home. Medicines that you are accustomed to. These are the things that may not be available or easy to find in Egypt.
Haircuts, manicure, waxing are easily available all over the city.
Sports and Entertainment:
Football is the number one sport in Egypt.
The expats have formed a ton of clubs for Rugby, Hash House Harriers and Cricket etc. There are local clubs for rowing, cycling etc.
Entertainment ranges from movie theatres, to book clubs. There are plenty of activities organised by locals, clubs, expat groups, churches etc. To be informed of local events, you can sign up to http://groups.google.com/group/whazzupcairo
Pets:
There are very good veterinary doctors available in Egypt. I highly recommend my own - The Pet Clinic in 6th of October City.
I'm not too sure about documentation needed to bring a pet in. I think its mainly the vaccinations have to be in order.
Useful Resources:
My Blog - whazzupegypt
My blog has a ton of links that are useful.
Cairo Family Guide for sight seeing in Egypt.
These Maps